Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Belitung: AKA the ‘Caribbean of the East’ or the ‘Seychelles of Asia’


Overview:
The island of Belitung is one of two islands that make up the province of Bangka-Belitung which are two medium sized islands that lay off the east coast of Sumatra. Geographically speaking Belitung is among the most beautiful in South East Asia. The island is surrounded by warm turquoise water pristine gradual slopping white sand beaches and uninhabited islands dotting the coast. Beaches like that of Tanjung Kelayang and Tanjung Tinngi are of a world class calibre and Tthe curiously large granite formations, that can be seen all over the island, truly make Belitung picturesque and unique.
Besides having arguably some of the best beaches in Indonesia, Belitung has historical significants as well. Simply known as ‘The Tang Shipwreck’ or ‘The Batu Hitam Shipwreck’ was an 8th century Arabian Dhow (Traditional trading ship) found off the coast of Belitung. The wrecks’ significance is that it gave new evidence of alternative trade route’s that were used besides the famed Silk Road that connected Asia to Europe. The wreck held inside it the largest single collection of Tang Dynasty artefacts. It is also interesting to know that during British colonization during the 1800’s the mining company BHB Billiton took its name from the island due to its vast amount of Tin. Since then its mining operation has dwindled and more recently the island remains relatively unknown to local Indonesian’s and the outside world. But this is changing. In 2005, a book titled ‘Laskar Pelangi’ (Rainbow Warrior) hit the bookshelves in Indonesia. Written by local author AndreaHirata, Laskar Pelangi is set in a small village in Belitung and quickly became a local bestseller. Since then it has been adapted into the highest grossing local film in Indonesian history. The movie Laskar Pelangi was filmed on location in Belitung and has now opened the eyes of Indonesians to just how beautiful this island is. We can safely assume the stream of unassuming tourists which typically visit the island will increase to a roaring river in the coming years.
In 2010, while working in Indonesia a couple of friends and I got to talking. Motivated by our need to get out of Jakarta once again, Belitung was a name being thrown around as a possible destination. Traveling from Jakarta it only takes a short 45 minute flight, so logistically it just made sense to us being that we would only have a long weekend. I can safely say that Belitung exceeded everyone of our expectations. The island itself has little to no tourist facilities and just a handful of hotels. We are all in agreed that this added to the charm to the island. The trip itself was far from luxurious, but we weren’t looking for that anyways. Our long weekend was spent exploring and relaxing on numerous named and unnamed empty beaches, island hopping to the small uninhabited islands dotting the coast. Adventuring into jungle in search of waterfalls, sunsets, seafood and genuinely having an unforgettable time to the point that on returning to Jakarta we all suffered what I like to call P.I.D. (Post Island Depression).
 I have since returned to Belitung in 2012 and I can gladly announce that the ‘roaring river of tourists’ have yet to hit the island. It is evident that tourist numbers have gone up with the development of some new hotels and additional hotels on the way. Belitung has still kept its charm and beauty. Just a tip, don’t go on public holidays.

Logistics:
45 minute flight from Jakarta and Sriwijaya Air and Batavia Air both fly to Tanjung Pandan (Capital of Belitung). The roads on Belitung have been newly paved you can rent motorcycles and or cars with drives.

Motorcycle rental: Rp60,000 per-day
Car: Rp300,000 – Rp450,000 per-day
Car with Driver:  Rp450,000 – Rp600,000 per-day


Highlights

North Coast: Probably the most developed side of the islands in terms of tourist facilities. There are plenty of named and unnamed beaches to explore - just walk the coast.

Tanjung Kelayang-
On the North-west most tip of Belitung is Tanjung Kelayang, this is where we stayed in a small hotel called Kelayang Cottages This is arguably one of the best beaches with Burung Island visible just off the coast. Walk around the point to get great views of the islands off the coast. This is the best place to organise island hoping.



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Tanjung Tinggi- (Set of Laskar Pelangi)
Probably the most picturesque beach on the island and the busiest on the weekends and public holidays. Get lost in the maze of giant granite rock formations, and or rent a canoe and explore. There are a number of good local warung style seafood restoraunts off the beach.





Island Hopping:
Off the North-west coast of Belitung there are numerous islands that lay off the shore. So much so that if you want to visit all of them it would easily take a number of days. You can do what I did and spend a day as an island outcast and get dropped off at an island of your choice with a cooler packed with supplies, just be sure you organise when to be picked up. The best place to organise the trip is at Kelayang Cottages on Tanjung Kelayang. Rudy, the manager of the hotel is very accommodating and will organise the whole trip for you, including food and a cooler with drinks.   Renting a boat for the day will cost you a reasonable Rp350,000-Rp450,000 including food (he will provide a cooler, but you must purchase the drinks). I’ve listed a number of islands I think are worth the stop. I recommend leaving as early as possible to make the most of the day.


Pulau Lengkuas-
This small island a few kilometres off the coast off the mainland is dominated by a late 18th century Dutch lighthouse still in operation today. The island is a postcard image of Belitung and is a definite highlight. For those who have the energy to walk up the 18 floors are gifted with a cool tropical breeze and absolutely breathtaking views. Rp5,000 entrance fee into the lighthouse.



Pulau Basir-
A small sand bank island covered with starfish- only accessible during low tide

Pulau Kepayang-
The largest of the outlying islands off the North-west coast has a tortious conservation operation run by donations. The picturesque island now has a newly developed eco-resort

South Coast: It takes 2-3 hours to drive from the North to the South coast. There are a number of interesting beaches around here. We visited a number a gorgeous spots by luck when we got lost. Take a chance and you’ll be surprised.




Pantai Membalong-
One of the empty beautiful beaches we came across.









Hotels- There are a number a new hotels in development mainly on the North coast

Kelayang Cottages - Where we stayed, simple AC and Fan cottages on Kelayang beach
www.kelayangcottages.com/
 
Lor-In: A more luxurious hotel down the road towards Tanjung Tinggi
http://www.lorinhotel.com/belitung/

Kepayang Island Eco Lodge: On Kepayang Island
www.belitungadventure.com




Another Video credited to my good friend Mikey


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